Butterflied whole chicken marinated in a fragrant mixture of lemongrass, garlic, cilantro root, and fish sauce, then slowly grilled over charcoal until the skin is deeply golden and the meat is succulent. This Isaan classic is street food grilling at its finest.
Ingredients
1 whole chicken (about 1.5kg), butterflied
6 cloves garlic
4 cilantro roots
2 stalks lemongrass, lower portion only
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
2 tablespoons palm sugar
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
Instructions
1Pound garlic, cilantro roots, lemongrass, and white peppercorns in a mortar until a coarse paste forms, then mix with fish sauce, soy sauce, oyster sauce, palm sugar, and turmeric.
2Butterfly the chicken by cutting along both sides of the backbone and pressing flat, then score the thighs and breasts deeply so the marinade can penetrate into the thickest parts.
3Rub the marinade paste thoroughly over every surface of the chicken, working it deep into the scored cuts, then cover and refrigerate for at least four hours or overnight for best results.
4Prepare a charcoal grill with medium-hot coals arranged for indirect cooking, placing the chicken skin-side up on the cooler side and covering to create an oven-like environment.
5Grill the chicken for forty-five minutes, turning every fifteen minutes and basting with any remaining marinade, until the skin is deeply golden and juices run clear when pierced.
6Rest the grilled chicken for ten minutes before chopping into pieces with a cleaver, then serve on a platter alongside sticky rice, som tam papaya salad, and jaew dipping sauce.
Did You Know?
The best kai yang vendors in Isaan use a special flattening technique where the whole chicken is pressed between two bamboo sticks while grilling, ensuring even cooking and maximum surface area for the smoky char that makes this dish irresistible.