Butterflied freshwater fish slow-grilled over wood, basted with a tangy tomato-tamarind glaze. Iraq's national dish.
Ingredients
1 whole large fish (sea bass or similar), about 2kg, cleaned and scaled
3 large tomatoes, thickly sliced
2 large onions, thickly sliced into rings
3 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp tamarind paste, dissolved in 3 tbsp warm water
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
Lemon wedges for serving
Flatbread for serving
Instructions
1Butterfly the whole fish by cutting along the backbone from inside the cavity and opening it flat like a book, keeping the skin intact. Remove the backbone if desired but leave the fish in one connected piece.
2Combine the olive oil, turmeric, cumin, salt, pepper, and lemon juice in a bowl. Rub this seasoning mixture generously over the entire flesh side of the butterflied fish, pressing it into every crevice.
3Mix the tomato paste with the dissolved tamarind paste and two tablespoons of warm water to create a basting sauce. Set aside along with the sliced tomatoes and onions for the final stage of cooking.
4Set up a charcoal grill and let the coals burn down to a medium heat with white ash. Prop the butterflied fish upright near the coals, flesh side facing the heat, secured with stakes or a fish grilling frame.
5Slow-grill the fish for thirty to forty minutes, basting the flesh side with the tomato-tamarind mixture every ten minutes. The fish should cook gently through radiant heat, not direct flame.
6During the last ten minutes of cooking, lay the sliced tomatoes and onion rings directly onto the flesh side of the fish, allowing them to soften and caramelise in the residual heat from the coals.
7The masgouf is ready when the flesh flakes easily with a fork and the skin is deeply crispy. Transfer to a large platter and serve immediately with lemon wedges, fresh flatbread, and a simple green salad.
Did You Know?
Masgouf restaurants line the banks of the Tigris in Baghdad.